In the decade of action, jewelry sector leaders are encouraged to prioritize fair markets, transparency, and engagement with the artisanal gemstone supply chain for impactful change. Monica Stephenson shares about her work in sourcing communities and advocates for living wages in ASM.
Monica Stephenson is the founder of ANZA Gems and co-founder of the Moyo Gems Project, with a mission to improve the lives of artisanal gemstone miners. She encourages communities in East Africa to retain more value from their resources by facetting gems locally, designing jewellery, and fully participating in the global gemstone trade.
Since its beginning eight years ago, 10% of sales from ANZA Gems has been reinvested into education and community development, addressing knowledge gaps and providing global market access to East African gem communities. Monica’s work with communities strives to reduce poverty, improve access to quality education, decent work, and economic growth, but her main motivation and primary driver is SDG 5: gender equality. It’s integrated daily into her business, from employing and mentoring women on her team to looking for women-led organizations and firms to partner with. Passionate about facilitating positive changes in the jewellery sector, Monica is involved in many initiatives, including co-founding the Moyo Gems project
What is Moyo Gems? What are the main activities and objectives?
Moyo Gems is a collaboration to bring traceable—and beautiful!—gems from artisanal women miners (and their male allies) in East Africa to the international market. We built a successful collaboration with two other international gem dealers Nineteen48 and Maison Piat, along with NGOs Pact, the Tanzania Women Miners Association (TAWOMA), and the Association for Women in Energy and Extractives in Kenya (AWEIK).
The aim of Moyo Gems goes far beyond purchasing gemstones, to increasing the access of miners to gemstone education, occupational health and safety training, and facilitating formalization through local governments’ mining licenses. Moyo co-created Market Days with women miners bringing the market to their remote villages which allows women to negotiate directly. Miners reported that they receive three to ten times the amount for their gems through Moyo Market Days as opposed to local brokers. This model is changing the living wage and status quo for the hundreds of miners involved in Moyo.
The UN defined this decade as the decade of action, where does the jewellery sector need to act now?
Access to FAIR markets for the artisanal miners supplying our raw materials is the number one priority for the jewellery sector. Also critical is giving miners more direct feedback on the amount they are receiving for their minerals. Miners are open to responsible practices once they aren’t in survival mode and have some financial security. Using technology with interesting models benefiting the original producer and increasing transparency and traceability of the material to the market can change the industry’s narrative.
You recently attended the Roundtable hosted at the UN General Assembly by the Belgian Mission to the UN, UN Women, and Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030 in collaboration with the UN Global Compact. What left the greatest impression?
Attending the UN event on Gender Responsive Procurement was eye-opening on a number of points, including how far we have to go to reach gender equality, and how progress on SDG 5 is inextricably linked to progress on many other SDGs. The impact the jewelry industry can have on gender equality is profound if we can engage, especially at the artisanal supply level.
What steps can leaders of the sector implement now concerning the coloured gemstone supply chain?
Engaging with the artisanal gemstone supply chain is the most impactful thing that leaders can do! 80% of coloured gemstones come from artisanal sources. Dismissing these communities will not overcome our current challenges. The responsibility to make this journey more beneficial and transparent is on us!
In Photo: Monica Stephenson sorting garnets with miners at a women’s cooperative mine in Tanga, Tanzania, courtesy of ANZA Gems.
Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030, represented by Executive Director and Secretary General, Iris Van der Veken, participated in an enlightening discussion with CIBJO President, Gaetano Cavalieri at VicenzaOro in September. The event provided a dynamic platform for industry leaders to share knowledge and collaborate towards a sustainable future for the watch and jewellery sector.
Ms. Van der Veken expressed her appreciation for the warm welcome and meaningful discussions held with Dr. Cavalieri and the World Jewellery Confederation – CIBJO. These engagements underscored the importance of collective action on the 2030 agenda, a vital framework for addressing humanity’s highest aspirations.
While recognising these collaborative strides, Ms. Van der Veken emphasized the collective responsibility to ensure the achievement of Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). “Halfway to the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development deadline, we must acknowledge that we are leaving more than half the world behind,” she noted. The SDG Progress Report shows that just 12 percent of the Sustainable Development Goal targets are on track, while the challenges posed by the COVID-19 pandemic, climate crises, and inequalities loom large.
As an industry of beauty and emotions, the Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030 recognises its unique opportunity and responsibility to lead the way towards human dignity for all. It remains committed to harnessing these insights and partnerships forged at VicenzaOro to drive sustainable change within the industry.
As we are heading towards the end of the year, we want to share our third newsletter with you.
We aim to inspire you and share some leadership perspectives on the topics that matter.
We thank many of our key contributors, Dr. Anino Emuwa on Diversity, Equity, & Inclusion, Monica Vinader on the responsibility to go above and beyond in sustainability action, Dr. Helen Crowley for insights on how nature and biodiversity are the foundations of our economy, and Monica Stephenson for empowering ASM through gender equality and education.
The time we have to implement the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development is half over. There are seven years left for the implementation of the 2030 Agenda. So how far have we got in implementing the 17 goals we set ourselves eight years ago?
Reflecting on our presence at the UN General Assembly in September, we were all informed how far behind we are. 85% of SDG indicators are off track.
We must now more than ever work together as an industry, we need to speed up the implementation of the 2030 Agenda. At the heart of the 2030 Agenda are five critical dimensions: people, prosperity, planet, partnership and peace, also known as the 5Ps. Traditionally, viewed through the lens of three core elements: social inclusion, economic growth, and environmental protection, the concept of sustainable development has taken on a richer stronger meaning with the adoption of the 2030 Agenda by adding two critical components: partnership and peace. Sustainability sits at the core of these five dimensions.
Yet today we are facing devastating situations of conflict around the world, new heights of global heating, ecological degradation and many setbacks in shaping a more equitable, inclusive society. Mother nature is in deep trouble.
At WJI 2030 we are committed to be accountable and do our best as a coalition to accelerate our 3 pillars in the area of climate action, preserving resources and inclusiveness. We continue to work hard on progress and will update you on regular basis.
As a final note, it is easy to be discouraged in these challenging times. We are at a moment in time when the world is gripped pain and conflict. And we are seeing the brutal realities of war and division – in Israel, Palestine, Ukraine, and so many other places globally. In being constantly inundated with 24/7 images of human suffering, it isn’t always easy to go through the world with an open heart, with empathy and with hope.
But this is exactly the time when we must stand together – in unity and in hope. And work together to translate that hope into concrete action, so our children and grandchildren can inherit a world that is just, a world that is healthy and a world that respects human rights and that is filled with compassion and dignity for all.
Warm regards,
Iris Van der Veken
Executive Director & Secretary General
Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030
In Photo: WJI 2030 Members Gather at the Gucci Archives in Florence, Italy for a Panel on Climate, Circularity, and Inclusiveness on Nov. 8, 2023
Last week the Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030 was invited to speak and present its work in an inspiring discussion on the future of luxury at the Business Fashion Environment Summit, hosted by Vogue. Congratulations to Boston Consulting Group (BCG) and Vogue for hosting such an inspiring event.
Iris Van der Veken, Executive Director and Secretary General of WJI 2030 spoke on the panel alongside industry leaders, including Fernanda Hernandez, Head of Sustainability at Luisaviaroma, and Claire Bals, Co-Founder at Gezeiten, about the future of luxury, growing consumer expectations, and the shifts made in the watch and jewellery industry to enhance sustainability and transparency.
Iris Van der Veken touches upon what luxury means to her, “There has been a clear evolution on what people define as luxury. We think of art, beauty and craftsmanship. We expect high quality. However, consumers now expect that there is a brand promise behind this beauty. People and planet matters. The conscious consumer is now starting to ask more critical questions.”
The concept of luxury has seen an evolution in recent times, understandably so because of the rapidly changing pace of societal values across generations, technology disruptions and the challenges we face collectively. In the past, the word luxury meant:
– Timeless and aspirational
– Lasting value and quality
– Beauty and Craftsmanship
– Elegance and beauty
– The highest status and great in-store experiences
Luxury today is increasingly focused on stories and experiences surrounding the products, how they inspire us and to what extent they align with the values we hold dear. Consumers are changing, retail is changing and the very definition of what luxury means is changing for a lot of consumers.
To appeal to Millennials and Gen Z – who are predicted to make up for 70% of the luxury market by 2025 – luxury brands need to shift their mindset, towards sustainability.
A brand must articulate its core values clearly. It has to be honest to build a lasting relationship. Fostering a sense of belonging. The new standard of luxury doesn’t treat people and the planet like inexhaustible resources.
Even though the core pillars of luxury – beauty, comfort, and elegance – are still very much intact, there is a new set of lifestyle goals and aspirations at play which is causing a revaluing of priorities. True luxury cannot exist without embracing real ecological principles and the consumers of today seem to echo this.
What do you believe is the concept of new luxury?
Watch the panel discussion here – (60) Business Fashion Environment Summit 2023: Inkluzywność w modzie – YouTube
Press Release: Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030 joins hands with UN Women, and United Nations Global Compact to shift gears on the 2030 Agenda and accelerate action
New York, 22nd September 2023: yesterday a C-Driven Roundtable was hosted at the United Nations 78th Session of the General Assembly by the Belgian Mission to the United Nations, UN Women, and Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030 (WJI 2030) in collaboration with the UN Global Compact.
The event brought together industry leaders and associations in the watch and jewellery sector, experts from the United Nations, including UN Women, and government representatives to the UN. Speakers included Mr. Ghislain D’Hoop, Vice Minister for Multilateral Affairs & Globalization, Belgium, Ms. Sue Allchurch, Chief, Outreach & Engagement, UN Global Compact, Mr. Cyrille Vigneron, President & CEO, Cartier SA and the Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030 Co-Chair, Ms. Anna Falth, Head of Women’s Empowerment Principles and Economic Policy Advisor, Iris Van Der Veken, Executive Director & Secretary General of the Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030, and Daniel Seymour, Director of Strategic Partnership Division, UN Women.
In 2023, UN Women introduced the WEPs Gender-Responsive Procurement Assessment Tool to help companies gauge their progress on GRP policies and practices. To test this Tool, UN Women partnered with the Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030 to launch a pilot programme that evaluates gender-responsive procurement in the jewellery industry. Nine members of WJI 2030 took part in this pioneering global initiative, marking the first-ever endeavour to apply the tool within an industry-specific context, and aiming to assess and enhance gender equality practices within the jewellery sector. Companies participating in the pilot included Cartier, Dimexon, Gucci, Italpreziosi, Julie Sandlau Vietnam, Monica Vinader, Rosy Blue, Rubel & Menasché and Swarovski.
At the roundtable Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030 launched its first case study on Gender-Responsive Procurement in partnership with the Women Empowerment Principles Secretariat housed at UN Women.
As the first phase of the pilot project on gender-responsive procurement concluded, pilot companies’ demonstrated real commitment to gender equality, speaking volumes about companies’ dedication to fostering positive change for gender equality in the workplace, marketplace and community. However, the report also brought to light common challenges evidencing the need to move forward faster to create gender equality now more than ever. WJI 2030, UN Women and the pilot participants are exploring a second pilot phase to involve their suppliers, and to co-design GRP tools and resources to continue to strengthen gender equality in global supply chains.
WJI 2030, founded by Cartier and Kering, is driven by a common conviction that the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) and aspiration for a sustainable watch and jewellery industry can only be achieved through collaborative initiatives. WJI 2030 is founded on three key pillars: Climate, Biodiversity and Fostering Inclusivity. At the core of Pillar 3 – Fostering Inclusivity, lies the Women’s Empowerment Principles, providing a foundation that propels our collective commitment towards gender equality. Recognizing the WEPs’ potential holistic impact on gender equality, WJI 2030 and its members extend their reach beyond immediate operations to encompass the entire watch and jewelry supply chain.
Anna Falth, Global Head of WEPs, shares, “It is encouraging to witness pilot companies’ demonstrated commitment to gender equality. Their active engagement throughout this assessment phase speaks volumes about their dedication to fostering positive change for gender equality. We are confident that their commitment will inspire them as well as others to pursue transformative approaches like GRP to advance gender equality. Together, let us harness this momentum and redefine the future for women across the world.”
Iris Van der Veken, Executive Director and Secretary General of WJI 2030 adds “The joint pilot with UN Women marks the initial step in constructing a robust framework of tools and resources, poised to empower companies across the jewellery sector.
Our vision is expansive, inviting all like-minded entities to join hands in this transformative journey. The urgency of our mission cannot be overstated—now, more than ever, we stand at a critical juncture to usher in change for gender equality in the workplace, marketplace and community.”
Cyrille Vigneron, President and CEO, Cartier SA echoes “As we embark on this collaborative pilot initiative with UN Women, we are committed to foster gender equality across our sector and alongside our members. In order to drive concrete change, education and practical guidance are key. And we believe that collaborating to develop practical tools provide a unique opportunity to benefit all along the watch and jewellery supply chain.”
About the Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030
Driven by a common conviction that the global Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) and aspirations for a sustainable industry can only be achieved through collaborative efforts, the Watch and Jewellery Initiative 2030 has been launched by Cartier and Kering.
The Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030, Member of the Global Compact and signatory of the Women Empowerment Principles is a global initiative open to all Watch and Jewellery players with a national or international footprint committed to a common core of key sustainability goals in three areas: building climate resilience, preserving resources, and fostering inclusiveness.
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Vicenza, September 10, 2023 – Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030, represented by Executive Director and Secretary General, Iris Van der Veken, recently participated in an enlightening discussion with CIBJO President, Gaetano Cavalieri at VicenzaOro. The event provided a dynamic platform for industry leaders to share knowledge and collaborate towards a sustainable future for the watch and jewellery sector.
Ms. Van der Veken expressed her appreciation for the warm welcome and meaningful discussions held with Dr. Cavalieri and the World Jewellery Confederation – CIBJO. These engagements underscored the importance of collective action on the 2030 agenda, a vital framework for addressing humanity’s highest aspirations.
While recognising these collaborative strides, Ms. Van der Veken emphasized the collective responsibility to ensure the achievement of Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). “Halfway to the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development deadline, we must acknowledge that we are leaving more than half the world behind,” she noted. The SDG Progress Report shows that just 12 percent of the Sustainable Development Goal targets are on track, while the challenges posed by the COVID-19 pandemic, climate crises, and inequalities loom large.
As an industry of beauty and emotions, the Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030 recognises its unique opportunity and responsibility to lead the way towards human dignity for all. It remains committed to harnessing these insights and partnerships forged at VicenzaOro to drive sustainable change within the industry.
More information: www.wjinitiative2030.org
Press contact: press@wjinitiative2030.org
About the Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030
Driven by a common conviction that the global Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) and aspirations for a sustainable industry can only be achieved through collaborative efforts, the Watch and Jewellery Initiative 2030 has been launched by Cartier and Kering. The Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030, Member of the Global Compact and signatory of the Women Empowerment Principles is a global initiative open to all Watch and Jewellery players with a national or international footprint committed to a common core of key sustainability goals in three areas: building climate resilience, preserving resources, and fostering inclusiveness.