Exactly 75 years ago, on 10th December 1948, a declaration was adopted by the UN General Assembly in the Palais de Chaillot in Paris. The “Universal Declaration of Human Rights” was ground-breaking and unprecedented in its universalist language. Today, as we celebrate the 75th anniversary of this milestone as Human Rights Day, we owe so much to what happened on that day.

The declaration itself was the culmination of a series of well-known historical events and the hard work and struggle of countless unsung women and men. Today, we know that this fight continues. We have come a long way, but to fully realise the ideals set forth on that historic day, we still have a ways to go.

At WJI 2030 we are grateful and proud to be a part of this global pledge and to be able to partner with similarly committed industry leaders. 

One of these key partners, a world-renowned organisation working on advocacy and research in human rights, the Human Rights Watch, joins us in this edition of the newsletter with a message that I hope will resonate with you. 

As the year draws to a close, and we reflect on the achievements, the learnings and the as yet unfinished goals, I am proud to showcase one of the accomplishments that we are all immensely proud of – the Human Rights Navigator. 

The Navigator is a pioneering toolkit that provides practical guidance, tools, and insights related to WJI 2030’s strategic objective to respect and promote human rights in member operations and value chains. It is tailored to companies in the watch & jewelry industry and explains in detail how human rights due diligence (HRDD) should be carried out. It also explores salient human rights issues, i.e., potential and actual human rights impacts that are a priority for the industry.

We present an interview with Nawal Ait-Hocine (Managing Director of Transparence SA, Board Member of Fondation Suisse Déminage) and Elisa Niemtzow (Vice President at BSR and Head of Responsible Luxury Initiative) who will discuss how the Navigator can help companies get a head start in and accelerate their progress on the Human Rights agenda.

Lastly, I would like to acknowledge the saddening impact of the various conflicts that we are witnessing right now. I sincerely hope that there will be a cessation of hostilities soon. A world where empathy and hope are stronger forces than the impulse to violence is the world that most of us want to live in. Our work in promoting and protecting Human Rights and this planet depends on this belief. 

Wishing you and yours all the peace, love and joy that this time of the year brings and best wishes for a healthy and happy 2024!

Iris Van der Veken
Executive Director & Secretary General
Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030

In a recent trip to Norfolk, our Executive Director Iris Van der Veken visited WJI 2030 member Monica Vinader, to have inspiring conversations on their journeys, progress made and challenges overcome, and the legacies Monica Vinader want to leave behind. 

Tell us a bit about the mission of Monica Vinader? What have been the key milestones in your journey of growth?

At Monica Vinader we consider it our responsibility to go above and beyond, leading meaningful change in the jewellery industry and inspiring other brands to follow suit. We continuously update our sustainability roadmap to reflect this, making it more ambitious to proactively address climate change, transparency, equality, inclusivity and community outreach.

We’re always working towards our next milestone, but it’s important to celebrate how far we’ve come. We’re proud to be one of the first brands taking part in a gender-focused pilot programme with the United Nations Women’s Empowerment Principles. We’ve also published an initial gender pay gap report, and promise enhanced maternity and adoption policies, as well as paid leave during menopause and fertility treatment.

Circularity also remains a key focus for us, ensuring we’re minimising waste and maximising use. We’re proud of our well-developed quality control checks to ensure product longevity, as well as our 5-year warranty, lifetime repairs service, new jewellery care kit and recycling scheme.

For our community, we’re excited to announce new partnerships, including our work experience programme with Oasis Academy, and new staff volunteering opportunities with The Felix Project, Hackney City Farm, Norfolk Hospice and Transforming Local Communities.

Why did you join WJI 2030? How does this initiative contribute to your strategy acceleration?

The Watch & Jewellery Initiative strives to unite the industry, fostering collective and collaborative efforts to deliver impact along the entire value-chain. Monica Vinader strongly supports the sentiment that in order to deliver on the 2030 agenda, we must act together.

Being a member of WJI 2030 provides access to a multi-stakeholder community focused on accelerating positive impact towards the 2030 agenda. Members have an opportunity and a direct leadership role in shaping the future of the global watch & jewellery industry through their actions and collaboration with other members, suppliers  and industry at large.

You are leading the way on Women Empowerment. You are a signatory of the WEPs, and you recently took part in the pilot with WJI 2030 and UN Women on gender responsive procurement? Can you share a bit of your learnings?

In 2023, UN Women introduced the WEPs Gender-Responsive Procurement Assessment Tool to help companies gauge their progress on GRP policies and practices. To test this Tool, UN Women partnered with the Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030 to launch a pilot programme that evaluates gender-responsive procurement in the jewellery industry.

As a member of the Watch and Jewellery Initiative 2030, we were invited to take part in a pilot programme with the United Nations Women’s Empowerment Principles, which aims to improve gender-responsive procurement throughout the industry value-chain.

Some of the key learnings for Monica Vinader included: the need to collect more data around our gender responsive procurement and year spend on women and minority owned businesses; Investing a specific proportion of our supplier budget into women-owned businesses; Creating a company-wide designated procurement policy.

The coloured gemstones industry needs to push more transparency on origin, how are you engaging on this topic?

At Monica Vinader, it’s important to know exactly where our jewellery comes from so that we can manage and improve the social and environmental impact of every level of our supply chain.

Our industry-leading transparency initiative lets you trace the origin of our jewellery from conception to completion. In October 2022, we launched Product Passport with 50 styles, partnering with Ennovie – the world’s first net-zero jewellery manufacturer to implement blockchain traceability. Since then, we’re proud to have onboarded another manufacturer, sharing this innovative technology. We’ll be releasing more traceable styles in the near future, with the long-term goal of tracing every one of our products

Whilst working towards new milestones, we also want to share the progress they have made, with increased gemstone traceability by 30%, resulting in 51% gemstone traceability in total, and an expanding Product Passport traceability initiative, onboarding another long-term manufacturing partner.

Congratulations on the creation of Monica’s Meadow – a 7 hectare arable field being converted into a diverse, species rich wildflower meadow. A process that will take 5 years. Why did you initiate this and what is your dream in what you can achieve with this project?

This April, we marked the first anniversary of our collaboration with leading environmentalist Jake Fiennes on a biodiversity project to preserve a 7 hectare site next to our Holkham Head Office.

Named ‘Monica’s Meadow’, our five-year project employs science-based, traceable metrics that will have positive benefits, including improving air, water and soil quality, sequestering carbon and improving the biodiversity of the land.

We initiated this project because as a company we wanted to lead with action and demonstrate that you can make a difference right on your doorstep. We want the meadow to set an example to educate our customers, staff, other brands and our local community to start their own projects and regenerate local landscapes.

So far, we have completed initial land assessments, including soil and air quality, current biodiversity levels and species, created a pond to further increase biodiversity, and planted bespoke seed mix and we are excited to see the growth as this project evolves.

What is next on your agenda?

At Monica Vinader we are very proud of the various milestones we have achieved, however “we mustn’t get complacent. There’s more to be done and the road ahead is long but exciting.”

A few things we are currently working on and in the pipeline:

  1. Implement a decarbonisation strategy and net zero roadmap.
  2. Nominate employees to participate in Diversity in Retail’s leadership programmes to support career progression.
  3. Launch a human rights due diligence programme with an external expert across our internal business and across our supply chain.
  4. Continue to roll out our Product Passport traceability initiative, adding 50 new styles per year., targeting 75% of our collection to be fully traceable by 2025.     
  5. Lead change in the jewellery industry by delivering agenda-setting goals aligned with the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals.

Dr. Helen Crowley stands at the forefront of the intersection between climate, nature, and business, emphasizing the vital role of supply chains as drivers of positive change. She explores the imperative for companies to prioritize biodiversity, the accelerating trends in accountability and disclosure, and recommendations for those embarking on their journey, while shedding light on the role WJI 2030 members play in accelerating progress on biodiversity within the luxury industry.

Having earned her PhD in Zoology from the Australian National University before embarking on conservation work across Africa and Madagascar, Dr. Helen Crowley recognized the positive potential that supply chains can have as drivers of good. This objective led her to Kering, where she played a crucial role in developing the sustainability strategy around sourcing and raw materials. Now serving as the Managing Director at Pollination, a specialist climate change advisory and investment firm, Dr. Crowley continues her work at the intersection of climate, nature, and business, helping companies understand the importance of nature in their operations.

As an expert on biodiversity with decades of experience, Helen emphasizes the systemic risks posed by the significant global decline of nature.

We depend on the foundation of a functioning natural system, where interconnected elements rely on systemic thinking and change. Addressing one aspect of biodiversity often impacts others, and part of the solution lies in giving nature the ability to rebalance. When provided with space, time, and proper protection, nature has the incredible power to regenerate and heal. Trusting nature and allowing it to drive change, rather than relying on artificial or short-term fixes, is essential.

In the last four years, business leaders have increasingly recognized the importance of nature to their operations, impacting supply chains, material flow, clients, workers, and suppliers. Reports on biodiversity loss have highlighted the reality that the economy is fully dependent on services provided by nature and its role in addressing climate change. COP15 played a pivotal role in shifting the global discussion. It is now clear for many leaders worldwide that responding to nature-related challenges can strengthen supply chain resilience, prepare for shocks, adapt to the unexpected, access new markets, and meet stakeholder expectations.

How is biodiversity accelerating?

Accountability, reporting, and disclosure are becoming more important, and increasingly, mandatory. Investors show a growing interest in companies’ performances on nature-related topics. Countries like France have embraced mandatory reporting on nature-related risks, biodiversity impacts, and dependencies, with others likely to follow soon.

The participating governments at COP15 committed to eliminating harmful subsidies to nature and increasing financial support for conservation efforts by 2030, mobilizing at least $200 billion USD per year. Environmental policies, such as the deforestation-free policy and the nature restoration law, are being discussed more frequently in the EU and globally.

As stakeholders’ expectations shift business decisions, CEOs and board members are increasingly held accountable for nature-related decisions and actions. Dr. Crowley states, “Where you can draw a line between your business and environmental impacts, especially nature and biodiversity, there is a risk at all levels of the business. I don’t think everyone should react because of fear, but rather because of incentives and opportunities, as this space is rapidly evolving.”

What is recommended for companies starting their journeys?

What role do WJI 2030 members have in accelerating progress on biodiversity?

As members deeply committed to climate resilience and resource preservation, WJI 2030 can bring a full value proposition mindset to nature-related issues. Supporting suppliers to bring positive benefits to local production, community, and the planet is crucial. Additionally, protecting ecosystems like seagrass or mangroves delivers substantial benefits, from carbon uptake to building extreme weather resilience for local communities. Creating an accessible interface for people to understand and act on nature-related problems is another vital role that members can focus on.

As the focus on biodiversity grows, the watch and jewelry sectors should stay informed about new research and lead the change in the luxury industry. Being knowledgeable leaders and basing actions on education will accelerate progress. “The value that nature provides is priceless,” treating it like luxury with its rare balance will lead to prosperity and a positive future for our industries.

Last month Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030 was invited to speak and present its work in an inspiring discussion on the future of luxury at the Business Fashion Environment Summit, hosted by Vogue. Congratulations to Boston Consulting Group (BCG) and Vogue for hosting such an inspiring event.

Iris Van der Veken, Executive Director and Secretary General of WJI 2030 spoke on the panel alongside industry leaders, including Fernanda Hernandez, Head of Sustainability at Luisaviaroma, and Claire Bals, Co-Founder at Gezeiten, about the future of luxury, growing consumer expectations, and the shifts made in the watch and jewellery industry to enhance sustainability and transparency.

Iris Van der Veken touches upon what luxury means to her, “There has been a clear evolution on what people define as luxury. We think of art, beauty and craftsmanship. We expect high quality. However, consumers now expect that there is a brand promise behind this beauty. People and planet matters. The conscious consumer is now starting to ask more critical questions.”

The concept of luxury has seen an evolution in recent times, understandably so because of the rapidly changing pace of societal values across generations, technology disruptions and the challenges we face collectively. In the past, the word luxury meant:


– Timeless and aspirational
– Lasting value and quality
– Beauty and Craftsmanship
– Elegance and beauty
– The highest status and great in-store experiences

Luxury today is increasingly focused on stories and experiences surrounding the products, how they inspire us and to what extent they align with the values we hold dear. Consumers are changing, retail is changing and the very definition of what luxury means is changing for a lot of consumers.

To appeal to Millennials and Gen Z – who are predicted to make up for 70% of the luxury market by 2025 – luxury brands need to shift their mindset, towards sustainability.

A brand must articulate its core values clearly. It has to be honest to build a lasting relationship. Fostering a sense of belonging. The new standard of luxury doesn’t treat people and the planet like inexhaustible resources.

Even though the core pillars of luxury – beauty, comfort, and elegance – are still very much intact, there is a new set of lifestyle goals and aspirations at play which is causing a revaluing of priorities. True luxury cannot exist without embracing real ecological principles and the consumers of today seem to echo this.

What do you believe is the concept of new luxury?  Watch the panel discussion here – 60) Business Fashion Environment Summit 2023: Inkluzywność w modzie – YouTube

“DE&I initiatives help companies to attract and retain talent, foster innovation, access a diverse customer base, and improve decision-making and performance. They also demonstrates their commitment to a more just and equitable world.”

Dr. Anino Emuwa, award-winning global expert and public speaker on Diversity, Equity and Inclusion and WJI 2030 Board Member   

What are the biggest opportunities in the jewellery industry for DE&I?

The watch and jewellery sectors provide big and compelling opportunities for D, E & I that exist across customer acquisition, talent, and leadership. Embracing D, E & I in conjunction with sustainability empowers companies to respond to the demands of the evolving consumer landscape, with a key focus on the influential youth demographic. To cater to an increasingly diverse customer base requires creativity which can be stimulated by attracting designers and marketing teams from underrepresented groups. Cultural influences and the emergence of gender-fluid jewellery signify important shifts in the industry. Vital to success is talent acquisition and retention, achieved through cultivating an inclusive environment that fosters a sense of belonging to stimulate innovation and boost productivity. Research underscores the advantage of diverse and inclusive leadership teams, for better decision-making, risk management, and improved performance. 

What are your objectives for making D, E & I a priority in the upcoming year for WJI 2030?

WJI 2030 has started on excellent footing with rapid growth in membership with companies that are engaged and demonstrate commitment to the Initiative’s core pillars. It is critically important to build on this momentum and we have started to develop the D, E & I roadmap. As a first step, we have launched a survey to take stock of the D, E & I status of each member organisation, recognising that companies will be at different stages in the journey and therefore the plans and goals will have different timelines. A task force which includes representatives from member organisations will be launched , and together with external consultants, a D, E & I toolkit is being developed and will be tested before rolling out to members.

What is one step jewellery & watch companies can take now? 

Integrating D, E & I objectives into strategic plans by top leadership is crucial. By translating these objectives into KPIs for executives, companies can drive tangible progress making this approach the most effective way to build an inclusive organisation.

 In 2023, UN Women introduced the WEPs Gender-Responsive Procurement Assessment Tool to help companies gauge their progress on GRP policies and practices. To test this Tool, WJI 2030 and UN Women partnered to launch a pilot programme focused on evaluating gender responsive procurement in the jewellery industry.

Nine members of WJI 2030 took part in this global initiative, marking the first-ever endeavour to apply the tool within an industry-specific context, and aiming to assess and enhance gender equality practices within the jewellery sector. Companies participating in the pilot included Cartier, Dimexon, Gucci, Italpreziosi, Julie Sandlau Vietnam, Monica Vinader, Rosy Blue, Rubel & Menasché and Swarovski.

As the first phase of the pilot project on gender-responsive procurement concluded, pilot companies demonstrated real commitment to gender equality, speaking volumes about companies’ dedication to fostering positive change for gender equality in the workplace, marketplace and community. However, the pilot also brought to light common challenges evidencing the need to move faster to create gender equality now more than ever. 

Together in Partnership with UN Women, WJI 2030 has launched its first Case Study on Gender Responsive Procurement in the watch and Jewellery industry, exploring the topic of gender responsive procurement, sharing the process and methodology of the pilot, highlighting the key findings and learnings, and sharing recommendations, actions and resources to enable companies to get started and accelerate action.

The joint pilot with UN Women marks the initial step in constructing a robust framework of tools and resources, poised to empower companies across the jewellery sector.

Our vision is expansive, inviting all like-minded entities to join hands in this transformative journey. WJI 2030, UN Women and the pilot participants are exploring a second pilot phase to involve their suppliers, and to co-design GRP tools and resources to continue to strengthen gender equality in global supply chains.

Read the full report here.